WHEN THIS MAGAZINE was in its early days, a friend asked me, “Aren’t you afraid you’re going to run out of things to write about?” I answered that I thought not—that as long as folks around the world continued to cook and eat, I was sure we’d find plenty of stories to do.
IN THE 1930s, when I was a boy in San Francisco, my father and I used to ride the streetcar to Point Lobos, where he shared with me his passion for midwinter swimming at Sutro Baths, a massive, turn-of-century amusement center. After paddling around in a tank of heated seawater, we’d head to the adjacent Cliff House restaurant to eat something hot while staring out at the fog-bound Pacific.
FEBRUARY 2 Birthday: CHARLES MAURICE DE TALLEYRAND-PÉRIGORD
FEBRUARY 8 SPRENGIDAGUR
FEBRUARY 11-13 FESTIVALE
FEBRUARY 19-21 RED WINE AND CHOCOLATE
1895, Battle Creek, Michigan One hundred and ten years ago, inspired by the granola concocted by Dr. John Harvey Kellogg (later a cereal mogul) for the patients at his sanitarium in Battle Creek, Charles William Post created and began selling a product he dubbed Postum Cereal, in fact a beverage mix made of wheat and molasses.
1. Put mayonnaise, ketchup, lemon juice, pickles, and capers into a medium bowl and stir until well combined. Season dressing to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled. Dressing will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
The aroma of baking bread awakens a Detroit neighborhood
THINKING INSIDE THE BOX
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
One Good Bottle
LYNNE MEREDITH SCHREIBER
BEFORE DAWN in the Cass Corridor, a once crime-ridden stretch in inner-city Detroit, a sweet, yeasty scent hangs in the air. Warm and coaxing, it’s the smell of bread baking—and of the neighborhood rising to greet the day. Awakening their community was just what Jackie Perrault-Victor and her partner, Ann Perrault-Victor, hoped to help do seven years ago, when they turned a dusty brick building lit by a dangling bulb into Avalon International Breads.
I DISCOVERED gnafron in Lyon. I was there with my Paris-based friend Randal, wandering in an open-air market along the Rhône, when hunger scratched at our stomachs. Spotting a pleasantly plump sausage maker, I asked her where she liked to eat.
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Melt half the butter in the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add sausage, carrots, onions, thyme, and bay leaf, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Add half the wine, then cook until carrots are soft, 5–10 minutes more.
A scholar dives into Tokyo's Tsukiji seafood market and hauls endless treasures
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
THERE ARE two ways of approaching a prospective trip: either you research the hell out of a place or you show up innocent as a hatchling, prepared to experience the world as if for the first time. I’m an avid proponent of what my local weather station calls the “know before you go” school and thus would eagerly press Theodore C. Bestors Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World into the hands of any food-loving visitor to Tokyo.
These New Zealanders offer Burgundian aromas and New World flavors
NEW ZEALAND wine is a good news/bad news story. The good news: the wine is excellent. The bad news: New Zealand is so identified with one grape, sauvignon blanc, that it’s hard for producers there to drum up interest in the country’s other offerings.
Winning this chef-of-the-year contest can turn a cook into a legend
PETER! PETER! PETER!” screams the young Asian woman, her hair spiked into a cock’s comb, her “Rockabilly Forever” T-shirt slashed at the shoulders, as she stands up in the stadium. “Karin! Karin!” yells a lanky blond teen in the nosebleed section.
1. Cook lobster in a large pot of boiling salted water for 8 minutes, then transfer to a large bowl of ice water to let cool. Drain lobster. Remove tail and claw meat, cover, and refrigerate (save knuckle meat for another use). Put lobster shells and body into a medium pot.
Haggis isn’t for everyone—but a Texan turned it into a full-time job
IN 1786, Scottish bard Robert Burns put quill to paper in honor of his motherland’s national sausage, scratching out "Address to a Haggis", a paean to the “warm-reekin’, rich” preparation—the “great chieftain o’ pudding-race!” To this day, recitals of the poem usher mounds of haggis to Scotland’s tables each January 25, when the late poet’s disciples gather for the Burns Night Supper, a birthday bash and blessed chance for a haggis feast.
This is a New Orleans sandwich of mythical proportions
PROPERLY CONSTRUCTED, the New Orleans oyster po’boy is a hungry dockhand’s dream come true: a crusty loaf of French bread generously stuffed with fried bivalves, slathered with creamy mayonnaise, and dressed with shredded iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced tomato, and tangy dill pickle chips.
1. Pour oil into a heavy medium pot to a depth of 2" and heat over medium heat until temperature registers 350° on a candy thermometer. 2. Meanwhile, combine corn flour, all-purpose flour, garlic powder, black pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste in a wide dish.
AN APPRECIATION of our favorite food, drink, restaurants, people, places, and things
WHY WE LIKE TO PLAY WITH FIRE
SOUP WE'RE HOT FOR
MOST REMORSEFUL FOOD CRITIC
WHY THIN IS IN
WHEN WE’RE GLAD IT'S A CROCK
PROOF THAT SHAKESPEARE COOKED
WHERE WE GO WHEN WE'RE TIRED OF TEX-MEX
NEW YORK STATE OF WINE
BEST SUBSTITUTE FOR PIZZA
The South’s Richest SANDWICH
TUSCAN WE THINK IS JUST SUPER
A LABEL WE CAN COUNT ON
MOST UNEXPECTED DINNER IN BERMUDA
RUM WITH A PUNCH
Hottest Way to Keep Your Hands Cool
THE SECRET TO HASSLE-FREE SWEETNESS
WHERE SMOKE GETS IN OUR FOOD
HUNGARIAN SNACK WE HUNGER FOR
HOW WE ALWAYS GET THE SAME OLD GRIND
Dining Room with a View
MOST IRRESISTIBLE AROMA
NOW, THIS IS FLOWER POWER
SWEETENING UP THE CHEESE COURSE
Where Irish Palates Are Smiling
RICHLY SATISFYING BREAKFAST BITE
TASTIEST SET OF ROAD TRIP SOUVENIRS
Topping That's Even Better Than HOT FUDGE
SAUCIEST INDIAN FLAVORS
(LONE) STAR BURGER
CHAMPION OF ITALIAN FOOD AND WINE
HOW WE SET WITH STYLE
Coolest Culinary-Cultural RAIL YARD
What We Eat When We’re Starving, Our Blood Sugar Is About to Crash, and There’s NO TIME TO COOK
KNIFE THAT REALLY ROCKS
HOW WE KNOW OUR ELK COVE FROM OUR DUCK POND
WETTEST Watering Hole
MOST SPIRITED SUBSTITUTE FOR ÉPOISSES
BEST PLACE TO CHOW DOWN IN BANGALORE
TASTIEST CUBAN SNACK
WHEN SIZE MATTERS
VINES THAT TRUMP MINES
Meatiest Tome on Our Shelves
HEALTHFUL WAY TO GET PICKLED
How We Got Wine on Our Transcript
Why Italians Don’t Drink FRAPPUCCINO
REALLY JUICY POETRY
ULTIMATE SLICE OF SUGAR AND SPICE
FAIREST-MINDED OF THE FAIRS
FAVORITE OUT-OF-SEASON TOMATOES
TOP HOT RACK
BEST CULINARY BREWMASTER
PEPPING UP OUR PORRIDGE
Little House, Big Appetites
CHOCOLATE LOVERS' EMPORIUM
A Grocer with a Gift
STURDIEST BAKING SHEET
FOOD AND DRINK MOST IN THE PINK
MOST UNLIKELY DINING ROOM IN IRELAND
WHAT TO READ WITH A GLASS OF BARBARESCO
No, You Can’t Live Without ’em
HOW AMERICA BECAME TUSCAN
HOW WE PUT A SPIN ON DINNER
NEW BOARD ON THE BLOCK
TASTIEST EXAMPLE OF SPANISH FERMENT
INDONESIA'S ANSWER TO CHIPS
YES, WE SMOKE IN THE KITCHEN
FANCIEST POSSIBLE PASTA TOPPING
SAVIOR OF SPANISH CHEESE
BEST WAY TO SPIKE A FIG
WHY WE VOTE GREENS
FAIR DINKUMEST FARMERS’ MARKET
Favorite Wine Shop Name BAR NONE
CURIOUSLY STRONG GINGER
NATIONAL CULINARY TREASURE WE'LL MISS THE MOST
EASIEST PATH TO GOOD PASTRY
PRIME PROTECTOR OF CULINARY DIVERSITY
FAST FOOD WE KNOW IS BOSPORUS
WHY WE SWIG OUR VITAMINS
Favorite Hole Food
BETTER THAN PEANUTS
TAKING TEA with ALTITUDE
First Real Roman American
Recommended Two-Prong ATTACK
BEST SLICED BREAD SINCE SLICED BREAD
PUTTING THE SUPER IN SUPERMARKET
HOW WE HOPE OUR JOURNEYS ALWAYS END
WE EAT UP the world, and our annual SAVEUR 100 (this is our seventh) is an illustrated record of what we’ve been ingesting, both literally and figuratively. Our (as usual) eccentric but heartfelt choices this year include Italian restaurant pioneers in America, unusual food combinations, satisfyingly atavistic ways of cooking, and the dreaded, indispensable carbohydrate.
1. Make a wood fire in a fireplace. Bring a large pot of water to a boil on top of the stove over high heat. Meanwhile, melt 2 tbsp. of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook until just tender, 3–5 minutes.
SPRINKLE these dainty croutons over soups or salads. Preheat oven to 350°. Trim off crusts from 6 slices Pepperidge Farm Very Thin Sliced Enriched Bread. Cut slices into 1" X 1¼" rectangles. Gently toss bread with 1 tbsp. melted butter and salt to taste in a wide bowl.
1. Whisk flour, cocoa, cinnamon, cayenne, salt, and pepper together in a medium bowl and set aside. Put sugar, vanilla, and egg into a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer on high speed until thick and pale, about 3 minutes. Add butter and continue to beat on high speed until smooth, about 3 minutes more.
1. For the mornay sauce: Melt butter in a medium sauepan over medium-low heat. Whisk in flour and cook, whisking constantly, until pale golden, 3–5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and whisk in milk and cheese. Return pan to heat. Cook sauce, whisking constantly, until thick and creamy, 1–2 minutes.
1. For the pasta: Sift 1¾ cups of the flour and the salt together into a mound on a smooth surface. Make a well in the center of the flour, then break eggs into the well. Lightly beat eggs with a fork, then gradually incorporate flour from inside edge of well into eggs.
1. Wash grapefruit under warm water. Halve crosswise and squeeze juice into a bowl. Remove seeds and tie them up in a small square of cheesecloth. Refrigerate juice until ready to use. Using a small metal spoon, scoop out and discard pulp and membrane, leaving thick white pith attached to peel.
1. Preheat oven to 450°. Bake potatoes directly on oven rack until tender when pierced, 50–60 minutes. Peel potatoes while still hot, then pass through a potato ricer or a food mill into a large bowl and set aside. 2. Dissolve sugar and yeast in warm milk in a small bowl and let rest until foamy, 5–10 minutes.
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 5" X 9" loaf pan with butter. Press sugar into bottom of pan. Spread ketchup over sugar and set pan aside. 2. Put ground beef, onions, cracker crumbs, salt, pepper, and ginger into a large bowl and mix together.
1. Soak anchovy in a small bowl of warm water for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, soak capers in another bowl of warm water for 10 minutes. Drain capers and repeat soaking process twice more. Drain, then filet, anchovy, discarding bones. Chop anchovy filets and peeled garlic together to make a fine paste and set aside.
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Plunge octopus into boiling water and leave for 3 seconds, then lift it out. Repeat process twice. Return octopus to boiling water. Add 1 of the bay leaves and 2 of the onion halves and cook octopus until tender, about 1 hour.
1. Put tamarind into a medium bowl, add ½ cup warm water, and use your fingers to help dissolve some of it. Let soak for 5 minutes, then use your fingers to dissolve more of the softened tamarind. Strain juice through a sieve into a small bowl, pressing on any remaining pulp.
1. Put stock and 2 onion halves into a medium pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add chicken and salt to taste and simmer until chicken is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Strain chicken, reserving ½ cup of the stock, and discard onions.
1. Put potatoes, unpeeled, into a medium pot, cover with water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and cook until tender, 30–35 minutes. Meanwhile, grease a round 2" X 9" cake pan with half the butter, line bottom with parchment paper, then grease paper with remaining butter.
TOSHIO AND KALIN HASHIMOTO of Shiitake Farm in Rumford, Maine, sell this popular snack each year from their Shiitake Farm fry stand at the Common Ground Fair. Pour vegetable oil into a heavy medium pot to a depth of 2" and heat over medium heat until temperature registers 375° on a candy thermometer.
1. For the crust: Sift flour, salt, and sugar together into a large bowl. Using a pastry blender or 2 table knives, work butter and shortening into flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. Sprinkle in ½ cup ice water, stirring with a fork until dough forms.
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375°. Grease a deep 4-quart straight-sided baking dish or a heavy pot with 1 tbsp. of the butter, then set aside. 2. Melt 6 tbsp. of the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat.
1. Make a hot wood fire in a fireplace. Bring a pot of generously salted water to a boil, add onions, shallots, and leeks, and cook over medium heat until just tender, 15–30 minutes. Transfer as done to a colander to let drain and cool slightly.
You CAN BUY prefried cassava crackers, but we prefer the superior flavor we get when we fry our own. We buy the unfried wafer-thin squares needed for making the puffed cassava crackers above in packages of about 30. Fry them all at one time; leftovers, in the unlikely event that there are any, will stay crisp in an airtight container for up to two weeks.
SEVRUGA CAVIAR ennobles this otherwise simple dish at Gualtiero Marchesi’s restaurant; use the best caviar you can afford. Cook ½ lb. spaghettini (see page 83) in a large pot of boiling salted water over high heat until just tender, 8–10 minutes.
1. Put vermicelli into a large bowl, cover with hot water, and let soak until pliable, 20–30 minutes. Drain and set aside. 2. Bring stock to a boil in a medium pot over high heat. Reduce heat to medium, add greens, and simmer for about 5 minutes.
1. Put flour into a large bowl and mix in sugar and salt. Using a pastry blender (see above), work butter and shortening into flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. Add as much as 4 tbsp. ice water and blend quickly with one hand, fingers held together and slightly cupped, as you rapidly gather the dough into a mass.
1. Put goose, breast side up, on a rack set in a pan and refrigerate, uncovered, overnight. 2. Preheat oven to 300°. Finely chop 3 ribs of the celery. Heat 1 tbsp. of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chopped celery, garlic, shallots, thyme, and fennel seeds and cook until soft, 5–10 minutes.
1. Put milk and 6 tbsp. of the sugar into a small saucepan. Scrape seeds from vanilla bean into pan with milk, then add pod to pan. Bring milk mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often. Pour milk mixture into a wide bowl and set aside to let cool, then discard pod.
Gratins à l'Ananas et au Citron Vert et son Caramel d'Oranges
1. For the gratins: Put half the lime juice into a small bowl, sprinkle gelatin over juice, and set aside to let soften for 5 minutes. Put remaining juice into a medium saucepan, add cream, and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Remove pan from heat and set aside.
Techniques and Discoveries from Our Editors and Recipe Testers
A Perfect Pie, in Parts
OUT OF THE FIRE AND INTO THE SOUP POT
In the Saveur Library
SON OF BÉCHAMEL
MY MOM’S banana cream pie was the stuff of my childhood dreams. The main reason I loved it, though, wasn’t because of the crust (which was sometimes store-bought); it was because of the invariably luscious filling. Mom made her own rich, velvety, not-too-sweet vanilla pudding with just a touch of salt, which somehow played up the fruitiness of the thinly sliced bananas, and then she topped it off with soft drifts of whipped cream.
1. Put sugar, flour, and salt into a medium saucepan over medium heat. Gradually whisk in milk, about ½ cup at a time, and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is thick and comes to a boil, about 50 minutes. Boil for 1 minute, then remove pan from heat.
1. Heat oil in a large nonreactive pot over medium heat. Add lobster bodies and shells and cook, crushing shells often with a sturdy wooden spoon, until juices that accumulate in pot are clear and shells release a rich and roasty aroma, about 10 minutes.
THIS SAVORY, cold-weather treat is a fine use for goose liver as well as for some of the fat rendered from roasting the goose in the recipe on page 74. It’s equally delicious made with duck fat and the livers of duck or chicken. Chop 1 goose liver and set aside.
1. Preheat oven to 375°. Cut a piece of parchment paper to make it fit snugly into a medium ovenproof pot. Grease one side of the paper and inside of pot with ½ tbsp. of the butter. Put endives, cream, and lemon juice into pot. Dice 3½ tbsp. of the butter and scatter over endives.
When in San Francisco, visit the Cliff House restaurant (415/386-3330) at 1090 Point Lobos. Stop by the Avalon International Breads bakery in Detroit (313/832-0008; 422 West Willis) for a whiff or a loaf. To find the Jaillance wine in our tasting box, contact Carbonnier Communications (212/896-1203).