Issue: 19991101

Monday, November 1, 1999
November
38
True
6
Friday, December 19, 2014

Articles
cover
0_1
0_1,12
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SAVEUR
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0001.xml
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0_2
0_2,1
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baby GAP
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baby GAP
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0002.xml
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2
2,3
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Jeep: GRAND CHEROKEE
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Jeep
GRAND CHEROKEE
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0003.xml
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4
4,5
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GE: Advantium Oven
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GE
Advantium Oven
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0004.xml
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6
6
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St. Supéry: Meritage wines
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St. Supéry
Meritage wines
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0005.xml
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7
7
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Palais Royal: Fine French Linens
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Palais Royal
Fine French Linens
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0006.xml
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8
8
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GODIVA: Godiva Fudge Délice Chocolates
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GODIVA
Godiva Fudge Délice Chocolates
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0007.xml
tableOfContents
9
9,12
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SAVEUR
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0008.xml
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10
10,11
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FOUR SEASONS
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FOUR SEASONS
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0009.xml
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13
13
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Advertisement
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0010.xml
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14
14,15
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TAVOLO
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TAVOLO
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0011.xml
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16
16
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SPAIN: Spain's finest cheeses
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SPAIN
Spain's finest cheeses
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0012.xml
article
16
16,18
FIRST
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BECAUSE IT'S VENICE
Why do we love eating in this magical city so much?
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DOROTHY KALINS
COLMAN ANDREWS
WE HAD LUNCH in Manhattan one day early this year with Marcella and Victor Hazan, in search of guidance on our forthcoming travels to Venice, and on the special issue we hoped to draw from those travels. Marcella and Victor were both born in Emilia-Romagna, and they’ve lived in Florence, Rome, Milan, and Bologna (often considered Italy’s gastronomic capital).
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0013.xml
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17
17
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TIFFANY & CO.: Platinum mesh buckle bracelet with diamonds
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TIFFANY & CO.
Platinum mesh buckle bracelet with diamonds
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0014.xml
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18
18
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The Greenbrier
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The Greenbrier
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0015.xml
article
18
18
FIRST
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NOW EAT THIS
After years of culinary philandering, we’re back to French
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THE EDITORS
At SAVEUR, we must confess, we've always been more than a bit Francophile. Even when the trends flowed the other way, even when our heads were turned (temporarily) by Pacific Rim–ish concoctions—a sliver of this, piled atop a slice of that—we always asked ourselves the morning after: Yes, but can you remember what you ate?
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0016.xml
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19
19
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BENEDICTINE: B&B THE COGNAC LIQUEUR
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BENEDICTINE
B&B THE COGNAC LIQUEUR
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0017.xml
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20
20,21
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CHARLESTON PLACE HOTEL
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CHARLESTON PLACE HOTEL
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0018.xml
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22
22
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Advertisement: THE FAMOUS GROUSE
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THE FAMOUS GROUSE
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0019.xml
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22
22
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Cuisinart: Hard Anodized Non-Stick Cookware
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Cuisinart
Hard Anodized Non-Stick Cookware
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0020.xml
masthead
22
22,26
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SAVEUR
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0021.xml
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23
23
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DEANDELUCA
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DEANDELUCA
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0022.xml
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24
24,25
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GM Corp.: Buick
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GM Corp.
Buick
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0023.xml
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26
26
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Advertisements
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Wüsthof
Wüsthof's Classic
Wüsthof
Grand Prix
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0024.xml
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26
26
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WARING: Waring Blenders
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WARING
Waring Blenders
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0025.xml
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27
27
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Advertisement: BELVEDERE
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BELVEDERE
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0026.xml
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28
28
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Advertisements
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Orrefors
Clara Dinnerware
Orrefors
Glassware
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0027.xml
article
29
29,30
FARE
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GOTHAM SWEET
It’s the buzz on New York rooftops
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
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WENDY KAGAN
A MID Manhattan’s water towers, high above the honking horns and car alarms and sirens, tens of thousands of diligent bees are busy reducing the metropolis to a sweet, fine essence: honey. An apiary publicity stunt? Not at all. Massachusetts-based bee-keeper David Graves insists that his rooftop endeavor is purely practical:
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0028.xml
article
29
29,30,32,34,36,38
FARE
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AGENDA
NOVEMBER 1 ALL SAINTS’ DAY
NOVEMBER 2 FOSTER'S MELBOURNE CUP
NOVEMBER 4-6 ABERDEEN AND NORTH EAST BEER FESTIVAL
NOVEMBER 7-13 NATIONAL SPLIT-PEA SOUP WEEK
NOVEMBER 7 & 14 LONDON EATS OUT
NOVEMBER 10 MÅRTENS AFTON
NOVEMBER 11 LA FOIRE AUX DINDONS
NOVEMBER 13-14 ZAO KOGEN DAIKON-GARI
NOVEMBER 20 RANCH HAND BREAKFAST
NOVEMBER 21-23 YIPENG LOI KRATHONG
NOVEMBER 23 Birthday: PROSPERO ALPINI
NOVEMBER 26-29 CHOCOLATE SHOW
NOVEMBER 28 Birthday: CLAUDE LÉVI-STRAUSS
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On this day families all over Spain honor departed relatives by visiting their grave sites. It's a somber occasion, so the food afterward is familiar, comforting, and regional. In Castile and other parts of Spain, for example, huesos de santo, "saint’s bones"
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0029.xml
article
30
30,32
FARE
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OEUVRE D'OEUF
Abbeville scrambles for this annual fête
THE WORLD OF PASTA, IN PRINT
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LINDA B. MARTIN
THOUGH I try to merge anonymously into the crowd gathering near Magdalen Square in Abbeville, Louisiana—about 160 miles west of New Orleans—a large woman in bulging stretch pants correctly identifies me as a Yankee. Spontaneously, she offers me a bite of her crab and crawfish pie.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0030.xml
article
30
30
FARE
METHOD
Abbeville Omelette
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THE ORIGINAL feeds the whole town. For a more modest portion, heat 4 tbsp. butter in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 1 chopped, peeled onion and 1 chopped, seeded, and stemmed green bell pepper and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in 1 cup peeled, cooked crawfish tails.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0031.xml
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31
31
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ROLEX: Lady Datejust
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ROLEX
Lady Datejust
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0032.xml
article
32
32,34
FARE
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DINNER DANCE
A TV director makes food get up and move
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CHRIS RUBIN
I’M LIKE Dr. Frankenstein," says Oscar Bassinson. “Food is dead. I need to give it life." A partner at Shadowrock, a Beverly Hills production company, Bassinson directs food-oriented television commercials, animating everything from maraschino cherries to mashed potatoes.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0033.xml
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33
33
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Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company: PERRIER-JOUËT FLEUR DE CHAMPAGNE
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Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company
PERRIER-JOUËT FLEUR DE CHAMPAGNE
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0034.xml
article
34
34,36
FARE
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VINEGAR VENTURE
It's balsamic! It’s Canadian!
TOTS ON TURKEY
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
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CHRIS KNIGHT
AN UNCTUOUS, shiny, intensely flavored dark brown syrup, the aceto balsamico tradizionale of the provinces of Modena and Reggio in north-central Italy is a gastronomic wonderment— about as different from the cheap balsamic vinegar sold in supermarkets as champagne is from wine coolers.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0035.xml
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35
35
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CHANEL: ALLURE
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CHANEL
ALLURE
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0036.xml
article
36
36,38,40
FARE
BOOK REVIEW
FROM THE GOOD CAFÉ
Upstairs at Chez Panisse, the food is wonderful, the compromises few
From the Saveur Cellar
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MARGO TRUE
THE EDITORS
IN MY corner grocery store late one night, I found myself agonizing over a tomato. It wasn’t organic, I knew, and it sure wasn’t local. I bought it anyway, but my conscience twinged all the way home. I don’t normally have these problems when buying produce, but I’d just read the Chez Panisse Café Cookbook, Alice Waters’s latest—written with the “Cooks of Chez Panisse”
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0037.xml
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37
37
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Alitalia
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Alitalia
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0038.xml
article
38
38
FARE
RECIPE
Shaved Foie Gras and Rocket Salad
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1. Prepare the foie gras several days in advance. Let it soften at room temperature for about an hour. When it is pliable, pull the two lobes apart, grasp the veins, and gently pull to remove them. Don’t worry about disfiguring the foie gras; it will be pressed later. When all the veins have been removed, lightly season the two lobes with salt and reshape them into their original form.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0039.xml
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39
39
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Norwegian Cruise Line
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Norwegian Cruise Line
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0040.xml
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40
40
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Advertisements
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FRANKE
Prestige Plus
FRANKE
Triflow
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0041.xml
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41
41
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V&S Vin & Sprit AB: O.P. Anderson Aquavit
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V&S Vin & Sprit AB
O.P. Anderson Aquavit
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0042.xml
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42
42
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CHRYSLER: CHRYSLER SEBRING
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CHRYSLER
CHRYSLER SEBRING
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0043.xml
article
43
43,46
MEMORIES
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EAST EATS WEST
Chinese-American Thanksgivings in Atlanta teach the author a belated lesson
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ADRIENNE SU
MY PARENTS, who were both born in China, came to the United States—my father in the ’40s, my mother in the ’50s—for higher education. They met in Atlanta, married and settled there, and had two American children—my brother and me. In 1979, when I was 11 years old, my mother’s parents left Taiwan and joined us in Georgia.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0044.xml
article
44
44
MEMORIES
RECIPE
Chinese Roast Duck
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1. For the duck: Remove any quills with tweezers. Rinse duck and pat dry. Remove fat from inside of cavity and discard. Cut off wing tips and (if attached) feet and set aside. (If duck comes without neck attached, leave long piece of neck skin intact and tuck skinned neck inside the cavity.)
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0045.xml
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45
45
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llbean
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llbean
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0046.xml
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46
46
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Frangelico: hazelnut liqueur
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Frangelico
hazelnut liqueur
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0047.xml
advertisement
47
47
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Frangelico
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Frangelico
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0048.xml
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48
48
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Campbell Soup Company: Swanson Broth
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Campbell Soup Company
Swanson Broth
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0049.xml
article
49
49,50
DRINK
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CHINCHÓN
In Spain, it's the name of a town, and of an irresistible, vigorous liqueur
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RICH RUBIN
JUAN CARLOS I may be the king of Spain, but in Chinchón, humble anise rules. Wandering down the winding streets of this tiny town about 30 miles southeast of Madrid, I'm confronted at every turn by anís, the anise-flavored alcoholic beverage that has been made here for more than three hundred years—and that has put Chinchón on the gastronomic map.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0050.xml
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50
50
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FOREST GLEN WINERY: FOREST GLEN
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FOREST GLEN WINERY
FOREST GLEN
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0051.xml
advertisement
51
51
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FOREST GLEN WINERY: FOREST GLEN
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FOREST GLEN WINERY
FOREST GLEN
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0052.xml
article
52
52
SOURCE
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SUGAR BONES
The holidays in Rome, New York, call for a different kind of turkey
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SHANE MITCHELL
IN 1921 four brothers by the name of Haritatos from Cephalonia, Greece, pooled their money and opened a restaurant in Rome, New York. They called it Candyland and, along with burgers and other soda-fountain fare, sold handmade candies—including a unique confection known as Turkey Bones.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0053.xml
advertisement
52a
52a,52b,52c,52d,52e,52f
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Bose Corporation: Infiniti 130
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Bose Corporation
Infiniti 130
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0054.xml
article
53
53
CLASSIC
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FUSION STEW
Argentina's carbonada blends Old World and New
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MINDY FOX
A HEARTY MIXTURE of beef and vegetables, accented with peaches and festively served in a baked pumpkin, carbonada en zapallo (sometimes called carbonada criolla) is a South American culinary hybrid that dates back to colonial times. The Spanish found a trove of new-world foodstuffs—pumpkins, sweet potatoes, and corn among them—when they arrived in Peru and Chile in the 16th century, and incorporated these ingredients into dishes from home, including one of grilled meat in broth, called carbonada.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0055.xml
article
53
53
CLASSIC
RECIPE
Carbonada en Zapallo
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1. Preheat oven to 375°. Cut a lid about 6" in diameter out of top of pumpkin; set lid aside. Remove and discard seeds and strings. Replace lid and bake pumpkin on a heavy cookie sheet until just tender when pierced with a knife, about 45 minutes.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0056.xml
advertisement
54
54,55
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Gaggenau USA Corp.: Gaggenau EB 184
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Gaggenau USA Corp.
Gaggenau EB 184
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0057.xml
article
56
56,57
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
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SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
FROM THE ISLANDS AND LAGOONS OF THE WORLD'S MOST ROMANTIC CITY COMES ITALY'S MOST UNDERRATED CUISINE
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0058.xml
article
58
58,59,60,61,62,63,64
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
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A MAGICAL CITY TO DEVOUR
IT SEDUCES US, THEN GIVES US SOMETHING GOOD FOR DINNER
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COLMAN ANDREWS
SEEN FROM THE AIR, SET IN ITS MARSHY CONTEXT, surrounded by water and by a scattering of incoherent jigsaw bits of islands, Venice appears almost modest. Apart from the weather-vaned domes of the Basilica of San Marco and the city’s emblematic campaniles (bell towers), with their peaked-hat capitals, it is a comparatively low-slung city; its red-tiled roofs seem dullish in comparison with the red-tiled roofs of the southern Mediterranean, as if they were permanently veiled in Adriatic mist; the unrelenting sinuous narrowness of the city’s streets and most of its canals gives it a cramped, coiled-up feeling from above.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0059.xml
advertisement
65
65
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John Jameson Import Company: IRISH WHISKEY
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John Jameson Import Company
IRISH WHISKEY
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0060.xml
article
66
66,67,68,69,70,71,72
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
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THE FISHMONGER'S TABLE
FOR GREAT VENETIAN SEAFOOD, WE WENT TO THE SOURCE
Creatures from the Bleak Lagoon?
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COLMAN ANDREWS
CAN YOU IMAGINE a market like this for a city of only 70,000 inhabitants?” Marcella Hazan asked us early one day as we walked together through Venice’s mercato del pesce al minuto, or retail fish market, on the Campo de la Beccarie, near the Rialto bridge.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0061.xml
article
67
67
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Vongole Veraci allo Zenzero
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1. Place garlic, oil, clams, and ½ cup water in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Cover the skillet and cook, shaking skillet over the heat several times, for 3–4 minutes. 2. Add wine and ginger and continue cooking, uncovered, until clams have opened, about 3 minutes more, discarding those that remain closed.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0062.xml
article
68
68
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Spaghetti all'Astice
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1. Plunge a sharp knife into top of lobster’s head just behind its eyes (to kill it quickly); chop into 8–10 pieces. 2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add lobster and any juices and garlic; cook, stirring and turning the lobster pieces, for 1 minute.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0063.xml
article
69
69
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Grancevola con Zucchine e Carciofi
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1. Pull off the tough green outer leaves of the artichokes until you reach the tender, mostly yellow leaves. Trim stems and slice about 1" off top of artichokes. Spread open leaves and scoop out fibrous white chokes with a spoon. Slice artichokes lengthwise into thin wedges.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0064.xml
article
70
70
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Brodetto di Pesce
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1. Peel shrimp, cut off heads, then put heads and shells in a large heavy pot. Cut shrimp into large pieces and refrigerate. Add fish heads, bones, and skin, mussels, clams, peppercorns, tomatoes, onion, carrot, celery, and 4 quarts cold water to pot, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0065.xml
article
71
71
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Gamberoni Grigi al Gratin
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1. Preheat oven to 400°. Tear bread into pieces and put in bowl of food processor fitted with a steel blade, then pulse to coarse crumbs. Transfer to a medium bowl and add basil, garlic, and grated cheese. Toss with oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0066.xml
article
72
72
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Seppie in Umido col Nero di Seppia
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1. Wash cuttlefish under cold running water (defrost if necessary). Separate heads from bodies with a sharp knife, then remove tentacles and set aside, discarding the eyes and beaks with the hard parts around them. Pull out hard “bone” from bodies and discard.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0067.xml
advertisement
73
73
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John Dewar & Sons Company: Dewar's
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John Dewar & Sons Company
Dewar's
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0068.xml
article
74
74,75,76,77,78,79,80
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
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LOCAL FLAVOR
VENICE REVEALS ITSELF IN WAYS BOTH OBVIOUS AND UNEXPECTED
PIAZZA SAN MARCO
AT THE WINE BARS
ART OF THE TABLE
VENETIAN PASTRIES
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VENICE IS A LADY with her petticoats provocatively on display. Peeking as you walk is a game—into half-concealed boats on watery boulevards; into open windows aglow with glass chandeliers. As you pass a furniture atelier, the light catches a girl holding a bit of gold leaf aloft (gold like this once covered whole palazzi).
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0069.xml
advertisement
81
81
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Bose Corporation: Jewel Cube
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Bose Corporation
Jewel Cube
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Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0070.xml
article
82
82,83,84,85,86
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
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THE WORLD OF CIPRIANI
IN VENICE, THE NAME STANDS FOR HOSPITALITY, AND GOOD FOOD
BASIC HARRY'S
CIPRIANIANA
TRIPE TIME
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COLMAN ANDREWS
WE ARRIVE AT Harry’s Bar at one o’clock on a chilly, sunny January afternoon, pushing through the narrow saloon doors. Mario greets and leads us past the bustling little bar, dispensing its elegant prosecco-and-peach-nectar bellinis—a house invention—and its stiletto-blade martinis, to the banquette table at the end of the small downstairs room.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0071.xml
article
82
82
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
METHOD
The Bellini
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
WHEN WHITE PEACHES are in season, you may want to make your own peach purée by passing the pitted peaches through a food mill, then passing the purée through a sieve. “Never use yellow peaches and never purée the peaches by machine,” says Arrigo Cipriani—though Harry’s Bar now only uses a bottled French white peach purée.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0072.xml
article
83
83
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Tagliolini Gratinati
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, make a béchamel sauce by melting 4 tbsp. of the butter in a medium, heavy saucepan over low heat. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat and gradually whisk in milk.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0073.xml
article
84
84
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Carpaccio
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. For the sauce: Make a mayonnaise by putting egg yolk, vinegar, mustard, and a little salt and pepper in a medium mixing bowl and whisking until foamy and thoroughly blended. Add ¼ cup of the oil drop by drop, whisking constantly. Gradually add the rest of the oil in a thin, steady stream, continuing to whisk as the mayonnaise thickens.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0074.xml
article
86
86
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Trippa alle Verdure
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add vinegar and several generous pinches of salt, then plunge tripe in and allow water to return to a boil. Drain and rinse under cold water. Slice tripe into 4" × ½" pieces with a sharp knife; cover, and set aside.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0075.xml
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87
87
[no value]
[no value]
PERUGINA CHOCOLATE & CONFECTIONS: Baci PERUGINA
[no value]
PERUGINA CHOCOLATE & CONFECTIONS
Baci PERUGINA
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0076.xml
article
88
88,89,90,91
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
[no value]
THE RISOTTO LESSON
MARCELLA HAZAN OFFERED US A LAST LUNCH IN VENICE, BUT GAVE US MORE
IN A VENETIAN KITCHEN
SCENES FROM A LIFE
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[no value]
DOROTHY KALINS
RISOTTO HAS A REASON," she says in that unmistakable voice, paved by a lifetime of Marlboros and of speaking her mind. Drawing us out of her tiny Venetian kitchen into a small study, Marcella Hazan, now not just a legendary cooking teacher and indispensable author, but also a scientist with two advanced degrees, commands us to inspect three single grains of carnaroli rice:
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0077.xml
article
89
89
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Risotto coi Fagiolini Verdi e il Peperone Giallo
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Cook beans in a medium pot of boiling salted water for 2 minutes, then drain. Cut cooled beans into ½" pieces, then set aside. 2. Meanwhile, bring 6 cups of water to a boil in a medium pot over high heat. Reduce heat to low, add bouillon cube, and stir until dissolved.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0078.xml
article
90
90
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Tagliata di Manzo
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Heat oil and garlic in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is pale gold, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat and add rosemary sprigs, turning them over several times, then set pan (with garlic and rosemary) aside.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0079.xml
article
91
91
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Radicchio Tardivo di Treviso al Forno
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Preheat oven to 400°. Discard any bruised or wilted outer leaves from radicchio heads and cut off discolored stem ends. Wash under cold running water and shake off moisture. 2. Cut each head of radicchio in half lengthwise, then make a V-cut in the root end, cutting half as deep as the root is thick and running the cut from the bottom to the point where the leaves join the root.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0080.xml
article
92
92,93,94,95,96,97,98,99,100,101,102
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
[no value]
VENETIAN CLASSICS
THESE TEN RECIPES, BOTH ANCIENT AND MODERN, DEFINE THE FOOD OF VENICE
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[no value]
[no value]
WHEN THE INTREPID English gastronome Lieut.-Col. Newnham-Davis visited the restaurants of Venice for the 1911 edition of his Gourmet's Guide to Europe, he found such things as baccalà (which in Venice is the air-dried cod known elsewhere in Italy as stoccafisso), “calamai”
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0081.xml
article
93
93
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Fritto Misto
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Mix cornstarch and ⅓ cup of each flour with 1 cup of sparkling water until it reaches the consistency of a thin batter, adding more water if necessary. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover, and refrigerate for 2 hours. 2. Chill shrimp, sole, and squid together in one bowl of ice water and scallops in another.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0082.xml
article
94
94
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Risi e Bisi
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Shell peas, reserving pods. Place pods in a medium pot with 8 cups lightly salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to medium-low, and simmer for 1 hour. Strain broth into a medium pot, pressing on pods. Discard pods. Keep broth warm over low heat.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0083.xml
article
95
95
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Fegato alla Veneziana
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Cut liver lengthwise into four long pieces, then, using a very sharp knife and pressing the palm of your hand firmly against the meat, slice each piece crosswise into pieces as thin its possible. 2. Heat 4 tbsp. of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0084.xml
article
96
96
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Bigoli in Salsa
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Soak anchovies in ½ cup of the white wine and 2 cups water in a large bowl for 30 minutes. Gently pull anchovies apart into lengthwise halves from the head end and remove and discard spines and all tiny bones (see page 140). Wash anchovies in the soaking liquid, discard the soaking liquid, set aside 6 halves for garnish, then cut remaining halves into small pieces and set aside.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0085.xml
article
97
97
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Tagliolini alle Vongole Veraci
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, heat all but 1 tbsp. of the oil, the garlic, and half the parsley in a large skillet over medium-high heat for about 1 minute. Add clams, cover, and cook for 1 minute more. Add wine and brandy and cook, uncovered, until alcohol has evaporated, 2–3 minutes.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0086.xml
article
98
98
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Sarde in Saor
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Rinse sardines and cut off heads and tails. Using a sharp knife, slice each fish open so that it lies flat, skin side down. Remove and discard bones using the tip of the knife or by running your index finger between backbone and flesh (see page 140).
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0087.xml
article
99
99
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Pasta e Fagioli
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Drain beans and put in a large heavy pot. Add pancetta, 1 cup of the olive oil, onions, celery, parsley, tomato paste, and 6½ cups cold water. Mince 1 clove of the garlic and 1 sprig of rosemary and add to pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are very tender, about 2½ hours.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0088.xml
article
100
100
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
[no value]
ESSENTIAL POLENTA
POLENTA TYPES
POLENTA TIPS
MAKING POLENTA
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[no value]
RONNA WELSH
Historically, Venetians ate very little pasta, not as much rice as they do now, and acres of polenta—which is (unromantic as this might sound) basically cornmeal mush. This satisfying, versatile starch tends to intimidate cooks who haven't grown up making it, but is really quite easy to master—and worth the trouble.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0089.xml
article
101
101
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Baccalà Mantecato
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Place stockfish in a large bowl or pot and cover with cold water, then place in refrigerator for 4–5 days, changing water at least 3 times a day, and more often if possible, until fish is rehydrated and soft. 2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0090.xml
article
102
102
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Tiramisù
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Beat egg yolks with a whisk in a medium bowl. Gradually add sugar, continuing to whisk until mixture is thick, smooth, and pale yellow. Gently fold mascarpone into mixture with a rubber spatula, then set aside. 2. Put egg whites in a clean, dry mixing bowl and beat with a whisk until stiff, but not dry, peaks form.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0091.xml
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103
103
[no value]
[no value]
BANG & OLUFSEN: BeoCom 6000
[no value]
BANG & OLUFSEN
BeoCom 6000
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0092.xml
article
104
104,105,106
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
[no value]
INSIDE THE PALAZZO
BEHIND ITS IMPOSING FAÇADE, A DELICIOUS CONTEMPORARY WELCOME
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[no value]
COLMAN ANDREWS
WE STEP OFF THE DOCK alongside the Metropole Hotel into a sleek, wood-hulled water taxi. “Palazzo Brandolini, per favore,” we say casually to the driver—as if motoring off to a Venetian palace were an everyday thing for us. The January sun glances off the water in bright confetti sparkles and warms our faces, and a salty breeze ruffles our hair as our boat purrs out into the Grand Canal.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0093.xml
article
105
105
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Risotto con Scampi e Radicchio
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Bring 5 cups water to a boil in a medium pot over high heat. Reduce heat to low, add bouillon cube, and stir until dissolved. 2. Heat oil in a medium heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add onions and garlic and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until soft, about 10 minutes.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0094.xml
article
106
106
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
RECIPE
Vistorta Torta di Cioccolato
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Preheat oven to 375°. Butter an 11" springform pan with 1 tbsp. of the butter, line bottom with parchment paper; butter paper, then dust bottom and sides with flour. Melt chocolate in top of double boiler set above simmering water over medium heat.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0095.xml
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107
107
[no value]
[no value]
Marchesi Antinori.S.r.l.: ANTINORI
[no value]
Marchesi Antinori.S.r.l.
ANTINORI
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0096.xml
article
108
108,109
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
[no value]
SOAVE COUNTRY
IT COMES FROM VERONA, BUT TO US IT'S A PERFECT VENETIAN WINE
[no value]
[no value]
COLMAN ANDREWS
VENETIANS HAVE a reputation as Italy’s greatest wine consumers—and that’s saying something. "We drink so much wine,” locals sometimes joke, “because we have no water....” The traditional term for a glass of wine in Venice is ombra, meaning “shadow” or “shade"
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0097.xml
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108a
108a,108b,108c,108d,108e,108f
[no value]
[no value]
Advertisements
[no value]
KOHLER CO.
CookSink
KOHLER CO.
ProAvatar faucet
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0098.xml
article
110
110
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
[no value]
TASTING NOTES
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[no value]
[no value]
THE EDITORS
We recently tasted a score of soaves, from producers both obscure and world-famous, ranging in price from $7 to $27 a bottle. The quality, needless to say, varied immensely—but the most expensive wines weren't necessarily our favorites.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0099.xml
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111
111
[no value]
[no value]
Nikon Inc.: Nikon Pronea S
[no value]
Nikon Inc.
Nikon Pronea S
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0100.xml
article
112
112,114,116,118
SPECIAL ISSUE VENICE
[no value]
VENICE GUIDE
WHERE TO STAY, EAT, AND MORE
Where to Stay
Where to Eat
What to Do
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
IN THE ULTIMATE tourist city, every calle and canalside seems to have its hotels, pensiones, and restaurants: Some are dizzyingly overpriced (which isn’t the same thing as being expensive); some live off past glory; some just aren’t very good.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0101.xml
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113
113
[no value]
[no value]
Cuisinart: SmartPower 7-Speed Electronic Blender
[no value]
Cuisinart
SmartPower 7-Speed Electronic Blender
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0102.xml
advertisement
115
115
[no value]
[no value]
Cuisinart: Custom Control Total Touch Toaster
[no value]
Cuisinart
Custom Control Total Touch Toaster
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0103.xml
advertisement
117
117
[no value]
[no value]
Cuisinart: Food Processors
[no value]
Cuisinart
Food Processors
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0104.xml
advertisement
118
118
[no value]
[no value]
A Berkshire Hathaway Company: BORSHEIM'S
[no value]
A Berkshire Hathaway Company
BORSHEIM'S
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0105.xml
advertisement
119
119
[no value]
[no value]
De Gustibus
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De Gustibus
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[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0106.xml
article
120
120,121,122,123,124,126
PECANS
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PECAN TERRITORY
SIZING UP THE TEXAS PECAN
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[no value]
MOLLY GLENTZER
THE SPOT SEEMS SO LUSH that it’s almost primeval. My husband, Don, and I are near the point in central Texas where the San Saba and Colorado Rivers converge. The water is brown and swollen, and the overgrown banks are swathed in a veil of moisture.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0107.xml
article
122
122
PECANS
RECIPE
Elsie Millican's Pecan Pie
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. For the crust: Sift together flour, sugar, and salt into a mixing bowl. Use a pastry cutter or two knives to work butter and shortening into flour until it resembles coarse meal. Sprinkle in up to 4 tbsp. ice water, stirring the dough with a fork until it just begins to hold together.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0108.xml
article
124
124
PECANS
RECIPE
Pralines
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Line a clean work surface with a 4-foot length of parchment paper. Put sugar, cream, and salt in a 3-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan. Stir mixture over medium heat until sugar dissolves, then allow it to come to a boil without stirring. It will now take 15–20 minutes to finish cooking the pralines.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0109.xml
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125
125
[no value]
[no value]
OK-SPAIN
[no value]
OK-SPAIN
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0110.xml
advertisement
126
126
[no value]
[no value]
JOSEPH E. SEAGRAM & SONS: CROWN ROYAL
[no value]
JOSEPH E. SEAGRAM & SONS
CROWN ROYAL
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0111.xml
article
126
126
PECANS
METHOD
Roasted Pecans
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
WE LIKE THIS recipe, adapted from Bill Neal’s Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie (Alfred A. Knopf, 1990). Preheat oven to 325°. Melt 2 tbsp. butter with 2 pinches cayenne and ½ tsp. sugar (optional) in a small saucepan over medium heat.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0112.xml
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127
127
[no value]
[no value]
JOSEPH E. SEAGRAM & SONS: CROWN ROYAL
[no value]
JOSEPH E. SEAGRAM & SONS
CROWN ROYAL
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0113.xml
article
128
128,129,130,131,132,134,136
PÂTÉS
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PÂTÉ AS A WAY OF LIFE
IN FRANCE, SPICED ‘MEAT LOAVES’ ARE A SAVORY REMINDER OF HOW WONDERFUL FOOD CAN BE
INSIDE PÂTÉS
[no value]
[no value]
SIMON HOPKINSON
SHOSHANA GOLDBERG
FOREMOST IN MY FIRST ATTEMPT, some decades ago, at making a professional terrine were the hearts and livers of the quail. Given the size of that bird and the fact that I had to fill four rather large oval terra-cotta vessels, the number of organs was, as you might imagine, impressive.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0114.xml
article
131
131
PÂTÉS
RECIPE
Pâté de Campagne
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[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Cut chicken pieces into legs and thighs, then remove thigh meat from the bone, remove skin, and cut meat into thick strips. Reserve skin, bones, and legs for stock. Mix together wine, oil, 1 tsp. of the thyme, 1 tsp. of the rosemary, and 2 of the bay leaves in a small mixing bowl, then add thigh meat, cover, and refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0115.xml
article
132
132
PÂTÉS
RECIPE
Terrine aux Herbes de Provence Madame Cartet
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Preheat oven to 375°. Combine pork belly, pork liver, shallots, garlic, salt, pepper, thyme, marjoram, oregano, summer savory, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, wine, port, and cognac in a large mixing bowl. Use your hands to mix ingredients thoroughly.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0116.xml
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133
133
[no value]
[no value]
FERRARI-CARANO: SIENA
[no value]
FERRARI-CARANO
SIENA
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0117.xml
article
134
134
PÂTÉS
RECIPE
Terrine de Foies de Volailles
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Pulse bread crumbs, garlic, mixed herbs, cloves, and milk in a blender until ingredients form a paste, then set aside. 2. Melt butter in a small pan over medium-low heat, add onions, and cook until soft and golden, about 10 minutes, then set aside to cool.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0118.xml
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135
135
[no value]
[no value]
LINCOLN: LINCOLN LS
[no value]
LINCOLN
LINCOLN LS
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0119.xml
article
136
136
PÂTÉS
RECIPE
Terrine de Lapin aux Aromates
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. Remove meat from rabbit, keeping loins intact. Set meat (including livers) and bones aside separately, and put loins, white wine, and shallots in a bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover, and refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0120.xml
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137
137
[no value]
[no value]
GLENMORANGIE: SINGLE HIGHLAND MALT SCOTCH WHISKY
[no value]
GLENMORANGIE
SINGLE HIGHLAND MALT SCOTCH WHISKY
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0121.xml
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138
138
[no value]
[no value]
Wood-Mode, Inc.: Wood-Mode Cabinetry
[no value]
Wood-Mode, Inc.
Wood-Mode Cabinetry
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0122.xml
article
139
139,140,142,144,145,146,147
KITCHEN
[no value]
IN THE SAVEUR KITCHEN
Room with a View (and a Stove)
Our Seafood Connection
FILETING SARDINES
SAVING INK
DEBONING ANCHOVIES
The Keeping Room
LANDSCAPING
HEAVY EQUIPMENT
COLLECTOR'S PIECE
CHIPPING AWAY
COLOR SCHEME
Salt Curing, Step by Step
SAVEUR KITCHEN MAGIC
STEADY SLICING
In the Saveur Library
SAWFISH
[no value]
[no value]
Colman Andrews
Melissa Hamilton
Betty Matyia
Christopher Hirsheimer
IT’S EVERY food-loving traveler’s fantasy: Actually buy some of those incredible foodstuffs you see in the marketplace and take them, well, someplace and turn them into a meal. Staying for a few days in a top-floor apartment on the ruga Giuffa in Venice, we realized that we had a night off from our restaurant rounds, so we did just that—filling our shopping bags at the Rialto fish and produce markets and from little stalls nearby.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0123.xml
article
139
139
KITCHEN
RECIPE
Fusilli with Scampi, Cranberry Beans, and Peas
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
1. If using fresh beans, bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat, add beans, and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and set aside in a bowl of ice water. If using dried beans, drain soaking liquid, put beans in a medium pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0124.xml
article
140
140
KITCHEN
METHOD
Deep-Fried Anchovy Spines
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
WE DEBONED piles of anchovies while testing our recipe for bigoli in salsa (page 96)— and were about to throw the spines away when editor Colman Andrews looked in and said, “Stop! Those are good to eat!” Then he showed us this recipe from his Catalan Cuisine (Harvard Common Press, 1999):
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0125.xml
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141
141
[no value]
[no value]
Monogram: Monogram Digital Cooktop
[no value]
Monogram
Monogram Digital Cooktop
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0126.xml
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143
143
[no value]
[no value]
Bertolli Nutrition Center
[no value]
Bertolli Nutrition Center
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0127.xml
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144
144
[no value]
[no value]
HAUTE @ HOME
[no value]
HAUTE @ HOME
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0128.xml
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144
144
[no value]
[no value]
CHATEAU LA JOYA
[no value]
CHATEAU LA JOYA
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0129.xml
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145
145
[no value]
[no value]
Panasonic
[no value]
Panasonic
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0130.xml
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146
146
[no value]
[no value]
Advertisement: SAVEUR COOKS AUTHENTIC FRENCH
[no value]
[no value]
SAVEUR COOKS AUTHENTIC FRENCH
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0131.xml
article
147
147,149,150
KITCHEN
[no value]
THE PANTRY
A GUIDE TO RESOURCES
FARE
MEMORIES
VENICE
PECANS
PÂTÉ
KITCHEN
SAVEUR COOKBOOKS
[no value]
[no value]
MELISSA HAMILTON
Beekeeper David Graves sells his rooftop honey at several farmers’ markets in Manhattan. Call his Massachusetts-based company, Berkshire Berries, for information. Or order direct (a ½-pound jar costs $5, plus shipping; 800/5-BERRYS).
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0132.xml
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147
147
[no value]
[no value]
Panasonic
[no value]
Panasonic
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0133.xml
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148
148
[no value]
[no value]
ZWILLING J.A. HENCKELS: Henckels Twin Brand Knives
[no value]
ZWILLING J.A. HENCKELS
Henckels Twin Brand Knives
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0134.xml
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149
149
[no value]
[no value]
Panasonic
[no value]
Panasonic
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0135.xml
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150
150
[no value]
[no value]
LEVINE LINENS
[no value]
LEVINE LINENS
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0136.xml
advertisement
151
151,154,155,156,157,158,159
[no value]
[no value]
THE MARKET
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0137.xml
advertisement
152
152
[no value]
[no value]
Thompson Cigar Company
[no value]
Thompson Cigar Company
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0138.xml
advertisement
153
153
[no value]
[no value]
Advertisement: SAVEUR
[no value]
[no value]
SAVEUR
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0139.xml
article
160
160
MOMENT
[no value]
MOMENT
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0140.xml
advertisement
161
161
[no value]
[no value]
VIRGINIA
[no value]
VIRGINIA
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0141.xml
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162
162
[no value]
[no value]
Advertisement
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Saveur_19991101_0006_038_0142.xml