Issue: 20070915

Saturday, September 15, 2007
September
8
True
148
Wednesday, August 19, 2015
5/23/2018 8:28:45 AM

Articles
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0_1
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Esquire
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0001.xml
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0_2,1,2,3
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Ralph Lauren
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RALPHLAUREN
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0002.xml
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4
4,5
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Louis Vuitton
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LOUIS VUITTON
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0003.xml
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6
6,7
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Land Rover
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landroverusa
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0004.xml
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8
8,9
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Bally
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BALLY
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0005.xml
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10
10,11
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Hugo Boss
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BOSS
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0006.xml
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12
12
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Bombardier Inc.
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Bombardier Inc.
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0007.xml
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13
13
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Jack Daniel Distillery: Gentleman Jack
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Jack Daniel Distillery
Gentleman Jack
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0008.xml
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14
14
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Prada Eyewear
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PRADA eyewear
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0009.xml
tableOfContents
15
15,20
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Contents
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0010.xml
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16
16,17
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Jaguar: Xj
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JAGUAR
XJ
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0011.xml
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18
18,19
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Jack Victor Collection
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JACK VICTOR COLLECTION
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0012.xml
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21
21
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Tod's
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TOD'S
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0013.xml
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22
22,23
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Rolex
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ROLEX
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0014.xml
article
24
24
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Letters From the Editor
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DAVID GRANGER
“ESQUIRE’S BIG BLACK BOOK is about the value in things.” I wrote that a year ago, when we launched this publication. It’s as true of our second edition as it was of our first; this volume of our Big Black Book contains many of the best things on earth.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0015.xml
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25
25
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Neiman Marcus
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NEIMANMARCUS
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0016.xml
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26
26,27
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Pioneer
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Pioneer
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0017.xml
masthead
28
28
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Esquire
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0018.xml
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29
29
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Dolce & Gabbana
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DOLCE & GABBANA
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0019.xml
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30
30,31
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Tommy Bahama
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TOMMYBAHAMA
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0020.xml
article
32
32,33,34,36,40,42,44,46
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The Essentials
The most vital and stylish possessions a man can own are the ones that help him enjoy life. These are just seven of them.
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AS RECENTLY AS TEN YEARS AGO, you couldn't give away a sport jacket to a style-conscious American man under 40. You may as well have asked him to sport elbow patches and smoke a pipe. But the rules of dressing up and down have since been recast: A man's closet has to be flexible and game for anything, and the sport jacket has emerged as a pivotal link between the world of casual and formal attire.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0021.xml
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35
35
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Cartier
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Cartier
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0022.xml
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37
37
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Ermenegildo Zegna
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Ermenegildo Zegna
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0023.xml
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38
38,39
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Advertisement: Calvin Klein Man
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Calvin Klein MAN
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0024.xml
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41
41
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IWC Schaffhausen
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IWC North America
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0025.xml
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43
43
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Poltrona Frau
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Poltrona Frau
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0026.xml
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45
45
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Baume & Mercier
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BAUME & MERCIER
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0027.xml
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47
47
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Cole Haan
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0028.xml
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48
48
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Patronspirits: Patrón
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patronspirits
Patrón
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0029.xml
article
49
49,50
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Pocket Square Nation
The unlikely comeback of the bygone style staple
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TED ALLEN
THIS PAST VALENTINE'S DAY, a 17-year-old kid in central Indiana named Joe Drummond had a date. The kind of date where even a teenager in the Year of Our Lord 2007 gets dressed up. Having already outfitted himself with a charcoal jacket, flat-front pants, black cap toes, and red silk tie, he informed his father that a trip to the haberdashery still was necessary.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0030.xml
article
50
50
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{word of Mouth} the Gossamer Linen of Simonnot Godard
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TIM HEFFERNAN
Simonnot Godard, the French brand behind some of the world’s most sought-after pocket squares, has a history that spans three centuries, five républiques, and not a few casualties. Allow us to explain: During the company’s first hundred-plus years (1787 to the late 1800s), and in keeping with local traditions, its pocket squares were loomed and finished by hand by the wives and daughters of the French countryside.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0031.xml
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51
51
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Chopard
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CHOPARD
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0032.xml
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52
52
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Ike Behar
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IKE BEHAR
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0033.xml
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53
53
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Waterman
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WATERMAN
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0034.xml
article
54
54,55,56,58,60
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The New Authentics
The best way to be in fashion right now is to step deliberately outside it. Here, four modern masters look to the past and fuse time-honored techniques with traditional cloths for results that are surprisingly contemporary.
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SITUATED IN A DARK ALLEY on New York’s Lower East Side, Freemans Sporting Club seems at first glance like a well-edited exercise in masculine kitsch. A caribou head greets visitors; a vintage barbershop offers straight-razor shaves; burnished wood shelves offer tool kits, bone-handle tooth-brushes, and other things Teddy Roosevelt might’ve used.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0035.xml
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57
57
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Maurice Lacroix
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0036.xml
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59
59
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Salvatore Ferragamo
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0037.xml
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61
61
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Ulysse-Nardin
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ULYSSE-NARDIN
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0038.xml
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62
62
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Bombardier Inc.
[no value]
Bombardier Inc.
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0039.xml
article
63
63,64
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The Incredible Shrinking Suit
The long and short of American tailoring in the 21st century
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NICK SULLIVAN
AFTER DECADES OF WANING INTEREST and hostile neglect, a growing number of American men are once again embracing the suit as a part of their lives. This is a good thing. These men know that a classic two-piece suit should not be thought of as a corporate uniform or a necessary evil but as a valuable extra business tool to have in the arsenal, like an MBA and a firm handshake.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0040.xml
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65
65
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Oris
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ORIS
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0041.xml
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66
66
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Esquire Best of Class
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esquire
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0042.xml
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67
67
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Robert R Bailey
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ROBERT BAILEY
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0043.xml
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68
68
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Kono Baru
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0044.xml
article
69
69,70
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Grooming
Because a modern man should care.
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THE ART OF THE Fragrance Bottle HERE THEY ARE, LIKE SO MUCH MODERNIST SCULPTURE: the season's new batch of men's fragrances. It's a striking group, all sharp corners and pitch blackness, not unlike the inside of Darth Vader's bathroom cabinet. The scents run from sensual and masculine to earthy and masculine, and that they look so strikingly similar suggests that there's a new grooming zeitgeist wafting about in the ether.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0045.xml
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71
71
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Gillette
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0046.xml
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72
72,73
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Chrysler
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CHRYSLER
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0047.xml
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74
74
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Pal Zileri
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PAL ZILERI
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0048.xml
article
75
75,76,78,80,82
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The Little Things
A field guide to personal effects
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THINGS HAVE ALWAYS GOTTEN a bad rap. Somewhere and somehow, somebody convinced the world that things—also known as accessories and personal effects—don’t matter. Lost all your worldly possessions in a fire? Don’t worry—they’re only things.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0049.xml
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77
77
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Shure Incorporated
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Shure Incorporated
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0050.xml
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79
79
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Cohiba
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0051.xml
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81
81
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Marquis Jet
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MARQUIS JET
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0052.xml
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83
83
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Parmigiani Fleurier Sa: Kalpa Graph
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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER SA
KALPA GRAPH
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0053.xml
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84
84
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Etro
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ETRO
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0054.xml
article
85
85,86
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The Long Road
Now that "luxury" is ubiquitous, it takes special effort to create—and obtain— something truly special
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SIMON O’CONNELL
MAYBE IT WAS A FEW DECADES AGO, or maybe it was just last year, but people used to know exactly what luxury meant. It was expensive and exclusive, the preserve of the rich and the privilege of the few. But then Costco decided to stock cashmere, Wal-Mart began using words like designer, and luxury started to go mass market—and the world was a better place for it.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0055.xml
article
86
86
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{how To} Buy Cashmere
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TIM HEFFERNAN
Lots of things bill themselves as “pure cashmere,” but there’s a reason some cashmere sweaters cost $90 and others cost ten times as much. The best variety comes from Mongolia and northern China and is called “long staple” cashmere, meaning the individual fibers measure at least 1.4 inches in length.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0056.xml
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87
87
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Kenneth Cole
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KENNETHCOLE
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0057.xml
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88
88
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Versace
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VERSACE
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0058.xml
article
89
89,90,92,94,96
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Leather
Never before have so many exotic hides been available in such large numbers. Here's how to tell the rare and expensive from the very rare and expensive.
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ONCE CONSIDERED ONE OF THE WORLD'S FINEST LEATHERS, Russian reindeer was lustrous, aromatic, and tanned to perfection by vodka-fueled craftsmen. It was also thought extinct (the leather, not the animal), its tanning process lost in the revolution's purge of all things luxury.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0059.xml
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91
91
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Yves Saint Laurent: L'homme
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YVES SAINT LAURENT
L'HOMME
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0060.xml
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93
93
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Kef: Muon
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KEF
Muon
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0061.xml
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95
95
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Piaget
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PIAGET
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0062.xml
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97
97,98,99,100,101,102,103,104,105,106,107,108
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Brooks Brothers: Black Fleece
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Brooks Brothers
BLACK FLEECE
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0063.xml
article
109
109,110,112
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Cars
Some of the finest vehicles on the road right now aren’t for sale in the United States. Here, three of the best and a few ideas on how you can get one.
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Jean Jennings
FOR ONE BRIGHT AND SHINING year—1993—Land Rover saw fit to bring Americans 500 iconic brush-busting Defender 110’s, shiny beasts of burden that could trace their lineage back nearly 60 years. (If you’ve ever been on an African safari, you were probably in a Defender 110.)
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0064.xml
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111
111
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Officine Panerai: Ferrari
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OFFICINE PANERAI
Ferrari
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0065.xml
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113
113
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Samsung
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samsungcamerausa
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0066.xml
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114
114
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Continental Airlines, Inc.
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Continental Airlines, Inc.
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0067.xml
article
115
115,116,118
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Travel
From where you go to how you get there, see the world in your own way.
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Laura Q. Hughes
GREEN IS EVERYWHERE THESE DAYS, AND THAT’S OKAY. The Only problem with going green, however, is that it has traditionally entailed some form of sacrifice—and for all but the most dedicated souls, that’s usually a deal breaker. This is particularly true in matters of travel.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0068.xml
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117
117
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Vacheron Constantin
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0069.xml
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119
119
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The Lucida
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THELUCIDA
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0070.xml
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120
120
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Johnston & Murphy
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JOHNSTON & MURPHY
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0071.xml
article
121
121,122,124,126,128
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Watches
A good one can tell you the minute and the hour and get you through the day. A great one can tell the world a story and stay with you for life.
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THE TRUE CHARM&EMDASH;AND most of the value—of a timepiece has little to do with its looks, and with the Zenith Grande Chronomaster Open XXT, it’s the El Primero movement under the hood (and, in this striking case, visible through it) that really counts.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0072.xml
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123
123
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Dell Inc.: Dell Xps M1330
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Dell Inc.
Dell XPS M1330
[no value]
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0073.xml
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125
125
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Sony Electronics Inc.: Sony Bravia
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Sony Electronics Inc.
Sony BRAVIA
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0074.xml
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127
127
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British Airways
[no value]
BRITISH AIRWAYS
[no value]
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0075.xml
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129
129
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Navigon
[no value]
NAVIGON
[no value]
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0076.xml
article
130
130,131,132,134,136,138
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The Bespoke Life
The unique experiences, the extraordinary objects, and the singular luxuries of a customized world
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IT’S A TRICKY WORD, “BESPOKE”—say it and people think suits. We can’t blame them, really—a bespoke suit can be a man’s greatest gift to himself, and the term bespoke even has its origins on Savile Row. (When a customer chose a bolt of fabric for his suit, that fabric would then “be spoken for.”)
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0077.xml
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133
133
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Bell & Ross Inc.
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Bell & Ross Inc.
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0078.xml
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135
135
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Kentucky Springs Distilling Co.: Basil Hayden’s
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Kentucky Springs Distilling Co.
Basil Hayden’s
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0079.xml
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137
137
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U-boat Italo Fontana
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U-BOAT
[no value]
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0080.xml
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139
139
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Lufthansa Private Jet
[no value]
Lufthansa Private Jet
[no value]
[no value]
[no value]
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0081.xml
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140
140
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Dewitt America
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DEWITT AMERICA
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Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0082.xml
article
141
141,142,143,144,145,146,147,148,149,150,151
THE PORTFOLIOS
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Mister Clean
There’s a certain kind of classic American style that blends sharp simplicity with bold, modern geometry. It’s all JFK and Sinatra, straight lines and right angles. As Sinatra once said...
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A SINGLE-BREASTED SUIT with a peaked lapel—one that adds sharp angles and a sharper attitude to the carriage of any man—will set you apart from the notch-lapel-wearing masses. Those twin peaks that point to your shoulders not only convey a sense of sophistication, but they help define your physique, too.
Esquire_20070915_0148_008_0083.xml
article
152
152
THE ICONS
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Masters of Minimalism
IT’S MORE THAN A SENSE OF STYLE, AN AESTHETIC, OR AN IDEOLOGY—IT’S A WAY OF LOOKING AT THE WORLD. HERE, SOME NOTABLE ADVOCATES OF KEEPING THINGS SIMPLE.
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JONATHAN IVE, DESIGNER OF THE POWER MAC, THE IPOD, AND THE IPHONE “There’s an applied style of being minimal and simple, and then there’s real simplicity. [The Power Mac] looks simple because it really is.” CHARLES EAMES, DESIGNER “The details are not the details. They make the design.”
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153,154,155,156,157,158,159,160
The Information
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Maintenance
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PROBLEM: Zipper is stuck. SOLUTION: Ask her to hold on a second. Check to make sure no fabric (or anything more important) is stuck; if it is, try pulling the zipper up and down again. Finally, rub the tip of a graphite pencil along the zipper.
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161,162,163,164,165,166,167,168,169,170,171
THE PORTFOLIOS
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Natural Born Killers
No sporting activity in history has had as much impact on men's style as hunting. Its patterns, fabrics, and technological innovations still influence countless elements of how and why we dress.
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IN 1823, A SCOTTISH CHEMIST named Charles Macintosh invented one of the world's first waterproof materials by spreading dissolved india rubber between two sheets of woolen fabric and bonding them together in a sandwich. Coats made from the cloth, quickly dubbed Mackintoshes.
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172
THE RESOURCES
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America’s Best Shooting Lodges
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SO YOU DON’T HAVE A COUNTRY ESTATE IN ENGLAND. BIG DEAL. THERE ARE OTHER DESTINATIONS, CLOSER TO HOME, THAT PROVIDE THE GUNS, THE GAME, AND THE DOGS FOR A PROPER SHOOTING EXPERIENCE. THE CLOTHES ARE UP TO YOU. EAST KING BARTLETT FISH AND GAME CLUB
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173,174,175,176
THE INFORMATION
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Formality
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INSIDE EVERY PROPER suit jacket, between the exterior cloth and the lining, lies the secret of its shape: a layer of cloth called the canvas. A bespoke suit or a top-end ready-to-wear design features what’s known as a full-hand canvas, sewn into the jacket by hand, stitch by stitch, so that it echoes the curves of the chest, gives the lapel its roll, and, in a sense, determines the very integrity of the jacket.
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177,178,179,180,181,182,183,184,185,186,187
THE PORTFOLIOS
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Ok Commuter
By foot or by train: If you’re going places, you’ll need a good overcoat. We ventured to the start of many journeys—the train station that serviced Ellis Island—to show how six men dress for travels of their own.
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FOR CENTURIES THE KEY to a great overcoat was more: more fabric, more layers, more everything. More was what kept you alive in the bitter cold. But with advances in high-end wool and cashmere weaving over the past 20 years and a concomitant rise in heated homes and cars, the voluminous, bulky overcoats of the past have given way to far lighter versions.
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188
THE RESOURCES
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The Great Train Escapes
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THE CLOSEST YOU'VE PROBABLY COME EPIC RALL TRAVEL IS YOUR DALLY COMMUTE. BUT IF YOU'VE GOT THE TIME AND THE INCLINATION, THE BEST WAY TO SEE SOME PARTS OF THE WORLD IS FROM THE WINDOWS OF A BAR CAR HERE ARE SIX LUXURIOUS OPTIONS. THE ROYAL SCOTSMAN
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189,190,191,192
THE INFORMATION
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Informality
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FOR SOME, the only answer to this question is “always.” For others, a few kinds of shirts can be worn untucked with impunity. These include a casual shirt with a bottom hem that cuts straight across (as opposed to one with a shirttail) and doesn’t hang below the hipbone, anything knitted (e.g., piqué or plain-knit polo shirts), and, of course, fitted T-shirts.
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193,194,195,196,197,198,199
THE PORTFOLIOS
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The Spoils of War
For as long as man has fought, the battlefield has been the laboratory for the most elegantly functional clothing he could wear. No wonder so much of it crossed into mainstream style and just dug in.
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THE DUFFLE COAT The good people of Duffel, Belgium, have been weaving thick, double-faced wool for centuries, but it wasn’t until the Royal Navy adopted coats made from the fabric in the early 20th century that the tiny village got put on the proverbial map.
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THE HISTORY
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The Military World
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BEYOND WHAT’S IN YOUR CLOSET, SOME OF THE MOST VISIBLE AND WIDELY KNOWN THINGS IN THE WORLD WERE BORN OF THE MILITARY. HERE’S A RANDOM SAMPLING. THE INTERNET (1969) ORIGIN: Created by the U. S. Department of Defense to ensure better communication between military-funded researchers.
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201,202,203,204
THE INFORMATION
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Etiquette
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Squeeze 1/2 a lime into a tall glass full of ice and drop in the rind. Add 2 oz l00 percent agave reposado tequila. (Cuervo Tradicional is a great, economical choice.) Add a pinch of kosher salt and top off with 3 to 4 oz grapefruitflavored soda.
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Ikepod
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IKEPOD
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206,207
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{resources}
A CITY-BY-CITY LISTING OF THE FINEST COBBLERS, TAILORS, DRY CLEANERS, AND ASSORTED OTHER NECK-SAVERS ACROSS THE UNITED STATES
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MEN’S STORE Stanley Korshak 500 Crescent Court Suite 100 214-871-3600 stanleykorshak.com DRY CLEANING Citi Cleaners 1324 Elm Street 866-353-4091 ALTERATIONS Gustavo’s Tailors 1222 Commerce Street 214-748-6163 REWEAVING/INVISIBLE MENDING
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206,207
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Credits
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PHOTOGRAPHS & ILLUSTRATIONS: Pocket Square Nation, page 50: Philip Friedman/ Studio D. The Incredible Shrinking Suit, page 64: Lloyd: Harold Lloyd Trust/Getty Images; The Graduate: Embassy/Lester Glassner Collection/Neal Peters Collection; Jagger and Richards:
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208,209
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Cadillac
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GM Corp.
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210
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Esquire The Big Black Book 2007
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