Issue: 19930901

Wednesday, September 1, 1993
September
3
True
120
Tuesday, August 25, 2015
5/10/2018 12:27:59 PM

Articles
cover
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0_1
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Esquire
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0001.xml
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0_2,1
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Advertisement: Zino
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Zino
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0002.xml
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2
2,3
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Banana Republic
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BANANA REPUBLIC
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0003.xml
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4
4,5
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Advertisement: Ralph Lauren Double Rl
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RALPH LAUREN DOUBLE RL
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0004.xml
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6
6
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Calvin Klein
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Calvin Klein
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0005.xml
tableOfContents
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7
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Esquire
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0006.xml
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8
8,9
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Louis
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Louis
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0007.xml
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10
10,11
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Burberrys
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Burberrys
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0008.xml
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12
12,13
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Levi's
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LEVI'S
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0009.xml
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14
14
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Advertisement
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0010.xml
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15
15
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Re Union Menswear
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RE UNION MENSWEAR
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0011.xml
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16
16,17
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Dockers Authentics
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Dockers Authentics
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0012.xml
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18
18
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Advertisement
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0013.xml
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19
19
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Bloomingdale's
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bloomingdale's
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0014.xml
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20
20
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Marzotto (usa) Corporation
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MARZOTTO (USA) CORPORATION
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0015.xml
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21
21,22,23,24
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Nautica
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nautica
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0016.xml
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25
25
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Nigel's
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NIGEL'S
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0017.xml
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25A
25A
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Façonnable
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FAçONNABLE
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0018.xml
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25B
25B
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Tailored Menswear Council of America
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Tailored Menswear Council of America
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0019.xml
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25C
25C
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Alfex
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ALFEX
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0020.xml
masthead
25C
25C
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Esquire
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0021.xml
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25D
25D
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Matsuda
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MATSUDA
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0022.xml
article
26
26
The Sound & The Fury
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The Sound and the Fury
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I T’S NICE to know you guys are willing to laugh at yourselves (“Viva Straight Camp!” June), because the chicks and the gays are getting too fabulous for comfort. Gays invented camp because straight people have everything else. -KARL SOEHNLEIN JR.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0023.xml
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27
27
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Gordon Segal
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Gordon Segal
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0024.xml
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28
28
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Calvin Klein
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Calvin Klein
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0025.xml
article
33
33
Backstage With Esquire
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Backstage with Esquire
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ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT these are children,” contributing editor GUY MARTIN says of Germany’s new crop of Nazi youth, which has once again heaved that still-divided nation into the fearful gaze of world opinion. “And when children take up weapons—historical or otherwise—it gets very serious, very soon, because, when they want to be, children are the most dangerous people in the world.”
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0026.xml
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34
34
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Versace
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VERSACE
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0027.xml
article
35
35
Cut to the Chase
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Cut to the Chase
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T. M.
THE LAWYERS AT NBC topped the absurdity of claiming ownership of David Letterman’s signature comedy bits by threatening to try to stop Chevy Chase from doing satirical newscasts on his new talk show at Fox. Hard as it is to imagine how NBC would use Letterman’s top-ten lists and stupid pet tricks without him, that the lawyers figure the network owns Chase’s political satire is even more baffling.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0028.xml
article
36
36
Man at His Best
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Happy Endings
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WILL BLYTHE
HERE AT THE BUTT END of the twentieth century, the reader of contemporary literature knows better than to expect the recherché delights of a happy ending, having been groomed by years of ennui and angst, irony and subterfuge, black humor and morbidity, all the dark tropes designed to ferret out the woeful contradictions of life and language. Frank Conroy’s Body & Soul (Houghton Mifflin/Seymour Lawrence) may therefore come as a shock to the literary system, as it is that rare thing, a genuinely happy novel, in which virtue and fidelity are rewarded and joy made as plausible as divorce or nuclear meltdown.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0029.xml
article
36
36,37
Man at His Best
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Natural-born Actress
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JEAN-CHRISTOPHE CASTELLI
I HAVE NEVER SEEN any actor do waking up so well,” a friend commented as Ashley Judd got out of bed in the opening sequence of Victor Nunez’s Ruby in Paradise. It doesn’t take a Redgrave to yawn and stretch, you might argue, but Ruby’s groggy vulnerability as she squints against the morning sun—the future shimmering with bright uncertainty through a crack in the seedy motel curtains—is one of the loveliest bits of acting you will see in a film this year.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0030.xml
article
37
37
Man at His Best
STYLE
On the Fringe
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IF YOU AGREE that a cashmere scarf is one of the few frivolous fashion options for the welbdressed man, then you can accept a scarf that has some . . . let’s say innovations. No doubt you’ve noticed the fringe. True, those extra tendrils (running lengthwise instead of the traditional bangs on the ends) don’t add much in the way of warmth.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0031.xml
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48
48
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Giorgio Rmani
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GIORGIO RMANI
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0032.xml
article
39
39,43
Man at His Best
Classics
The Gun
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JOHN BERENDT
<p>AT EIGHTY-FIVE, Harry Cram is the epitome of the gentleman hunter, having spent a lifetime shooting grouse in Scotland, duck on Long Island, and quail in South Carolina. A superb marksman, Harry is a fanatic about gun safety, but he’s not above having a little fun now and then.</p>
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0033.xml
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40
40
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Ralph Lauren: Chaps
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RALPH LAUREN
CHAPS
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0034.xml
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41
41
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Advertisement
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0035.xml
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42
42
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Schiefeelin & Somerset Co: Johnnie Walker Black Labels
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SCHIEFEELIN & SOMERSET CO
JOHNNIE WALKER BLACK LABELS
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0036.xml
article
43
43
Man at His Best
HABER DASHERY
Upward and Eastward with Barneys
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HANDS DOWN, Barneys takes the prize for the most chutzpah in what is either a recession or the end of prosperity as we know it. The biggest mens store in the world has just become nearly twice as large, expanding from its flagship New York store to a nine-story limestone palace on the Upper East Side.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0037.xml
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44
44,45
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American Honda Motor Co., Inc.: Acura
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American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
ACURA
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0038.xml
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46
46
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Philips Consumer Electronics Company
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Philips Consumer Electronics Company
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0039.xml
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47
47
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Advertisement
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0040.xml
article
52
52
Man at His Best
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Flat Tvs
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work, for the Japanese, who’ve already spent $3 billion on them, control 95 percent of the flat-panel market. Top-gun pilots won’t get their flat panels for years, but you can already watch Top Gun on tiny TVs. Sharp has developed huge projection panels—Miracle Screens—that light up the Ginza, and computer panels as large as fourteen inches.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0041.xml
article
52
52
Man at His Best
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The Second Life of Willie Morris
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RUST HILLS
IN ORDER TO WRITE two autobiographies, a person would have to live two lives—in theory, at least. In fact, it seems as if Willie Morris has lived about a dozen lives. In his first autobiography, North Toward Home, published in 1967, he wrote about several of them: his boyhood in Mississippi; his life at Oxford as a Rhodes scholar; his involvement in Texas politics as the editor of The Texas Observer; then his arrival in New York as an awed outsider going to work in magazine publishing.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0042.xml
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53
53,54
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Advertisement: Joop!
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JOOP!
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0043.xml
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55
55
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Advertisement: Esquire
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Esquire
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0044.xml
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56
56
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Zygon
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Zygon
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0045.xml
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57
57
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Quality Paperback Book Club
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Quality Paperback Book Club
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0046.xml
article
58
58,59
Man at His Best
Off the Charts
Brother From Another Planet
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MARK JACOBSON
ONE HUNG-OVER, wintry predawn nearly twentyfive years ago, stumbling softlegged and head-throbbed down by the turbid East River, yours truly encountered the entire Myth Science Arkestra, dressed in aluminum-foil tunics, flowing scarves, and tight leggings, just as if it were Monday night at Slugs.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0047.xml
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58A
58A
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Boss
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BOSS
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0048.xml
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58B
58B
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Nike
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NIKE
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0049.xml
article
59
59
Man at His Best
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A Band of Her Own
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NATHANIEL WICE
ONCE BACKSTAGE I had to use ham,” says Kim Deal, explaining her habit of rarely shampooing. “I took a piece from the deli platter and rubbed it in my hair. I had to—that fluffy thing was really bothering me.” Self-consciously egalitarian, Deal is often at pains to deflate her fame in the specialized world of alternative rock.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0050.xml
article
60
60
Man at His Best
THE ENLIGHTENED TRAVELER
I'll Fish Manhattan
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PAUL SCHNEIDER
IT WAs NOT exactly communion with nature, but it was reasonably close. “See that trash can at her feet?” Captain Shastay said. “Cast to about fifteen feet in front of it.” The feet were enormous and green against the darkening New Jersey sky.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0051.xml
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61
61
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Port Washington: Allen Edmonds
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Port Washington
Allen Edmonds
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0052.xml
article
62
62
Man at His Best
Eat and Run
The Best French Restaurant in America
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JOHN MARIANI
GEORGES PERRIER has never denied that he’s a little crazy. But that, he would say, is one of his good points. In fact, his manic insistence on perfection is what drives him and his staff at Le Bec-Fin to come so close to it on such a consistent basis.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0053.xml
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63
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Advertisement: Jilsander
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JILSANDER
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0054.xml
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64
64
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Valentino
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VALENTINO
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0055.xml
article
65
65
Man at His Best
House Hunting
A Pied-à-terre in Paris
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WILL BOURNE
THE PLACE: Paris, the Marais, a hundred-odd hectares of Grade-A swamp-land domesticated in the 1300s, the very nut of the Right Bank. The old Jewish quarter, it’s now about as cool as Paris gets—a rich cassoulet of artists and sansculottes, shoppers and fops.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0056.xml
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66
66,67
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Gm: Chevy Camaro Z28
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GM
Chevy Camaro Z28
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0057.xml
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68
68
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Coach
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COACH
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0058.xml
article
69
69,70
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
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How to Be a Consultant
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STANLEY BING
<p>IT’S A BEAUTIFUL MORNING in American business. Not for you, but we’re not talking about you. We’re talking about me, because I’m a consultant! Guys like me, we run the planet. I’d say the future belongs to us, but that would be wrong, sort of. I mean, of course the future belongs to us.</p>
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0059.xml
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70
70
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Four Seasons
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Four Seasons
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0060.xml
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71
71
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Four Seasons
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Four Seasons
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0061.xml
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72
72
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Hart Schaffner & Marx
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HART SCHAFFNER & MARX
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0062.xml
article
73
73,74,76,78,81,84
AMERICAN SCENE
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The State of Hate
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BELLA STUMBO
GIVEN HIS DRUTHERS on this particular spring morning, Will Perkins would probably be in some obscure Colorado farm town like Eads, where the mayor still openly refers to homosexuals as queers and where the population, all eight hundred of them, regard Perkins as the closest thing to an all-American hero since Ollie North.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0063.xml
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74
74,75
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Lands’ End, Inc.
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Lands’ End, Inc.
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0064.xml
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76A
76A,76B,76C,76D
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Minotaure
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MINOTAURE
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0065.xml
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76E
76E
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Willabee & Ward: the Classic Jean Jacket
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Willabee & Ward
THE CLASSIC JEAN JACKET
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0066.xml
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79
79
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Tagheuer
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TAGHeuer
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0067.xml
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80
80
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Mit
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MIT
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0068.xml
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81
81
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Tagheuer
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TAGHeuer
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0069.xml
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82
82,83
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The Timherland Company
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The Timherland Company
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0070.xml
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84
84
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Mcilhenny Company: Tabasco
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McIlhenny Company
TABASCO
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0071.xml
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85
85
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Mcilhenny Company: Tabasco
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McIlhenny Company
TABASCO
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0072.xml
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86
86
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Advertisement: Esquire
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ESQUIRE
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0073.xml
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87
87
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Advertisement: Esquire
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ESQUIRE
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0074.xml
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88
88
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Advertisement
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0075.xml
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91
91
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Advertisement
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0076.xml
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92
92
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Advertisements
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BOWFLEX
Pacific Fitness Malibu
BOWFLEX
VersaClimber
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0077.xml
article
93
93
LOST IN THE FUNHOUSE
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Lost in the Funhouse
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MICHAEL HIRSCHORN
THE NIGHT BEFORE the Grouchofest, Toby Young and I attend a televised town meeting on violence in movies. This is an opportunity to whine about everyone’s favorite subject: American cultural imperialism. “When the playwright David Hare went on TV and said Keats is better than Dylan,” Landesman says, recalling an earlier debate, “he was treated like this great resistance fighter against The Modern Review philistinism.”
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0078.xml
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93
93
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Advertisement: Vodka
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Vodka
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0079.xml
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94
94
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Beverly Hills
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Beverly Hills
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0080.xml
article
95
95,96,97,98,99,100,101,154,155,156
FEATURES
DISPACTH
The Short Life and Solitary Death of a Young Nazi
Peter Alicke grew up in the cult of the boot, the iron truncheon, and the ghost of Hitler. He tried to get out, but in Germany, history takes no prisoners.
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Guy Martin
Two YOUNG MEN died in Hoyerswerda last February One was a roadie for an out-of-town band called, of all things, Nekromanth. His name was Mike Zerna. After a Friday-night gig at a Hoyerswerda club, Zerna was beaten and kicked senseless. Then his van was rolled on top of him.
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0081.xml
article
102
102,103,104,105,106,107,108,109,157
FEATURES
MOVIES
Short Cuts
FINALLY, THE GREAT AMERICAN NOVEL IS HERE. IT’S SEXY. IT’S FUNNY. IT’S FURIOUS. IT’S TERRIFYING. AND IT’S A MOVIE!
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TOM JENKS
<p>Somewhat alarmingly, the first thing that Robert Altman says to me, after we’re introduced, is: “The dyed-in-the-wool Raymond Carver fans are not gonna like it.” We’re in Los Angeles, where Altman is shooting his latest film, Short Cuts, which is based on the work of one of America’s most beloved writers.</p>
Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0082.xml
article
110
110,111,112,113,158,160
FEATURES
SPORTS
Jimmy Johnson Livin’ Large
With a mouthful of boudin, a fistful of hundreds, and a big ol’ Super Bowl ring, the coach of the Dallas Cowboys heads home to Port Arthur, Texas, and shakes everything loose—except, of course, his hair
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JOHN ED BRADLEY
<p>AT SOMEWHERE CLOSE TO 11:00 A.M. the little black limo comes gliding off Highway 69, spitting sun off its paint and momentarily blinding a crowd of local folks gathered on the exit ramp. They’re standing next to a makeshift stage decorated with red-white-and-blue bunting, and framed high above them is a giant green sign that until recently pointed to Seventy-fifth Street. Today the sign says JIMMY JOHNSON BLVD, and that is why everyone has come, to officially dedicate the road to the one person who still makes the place proud, and who, despite a life of pure, unsullied glory, never seems to forget where he came from. </p>
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FEATURES
Our Man in the White House
Has Anyone Seen This Man?
The great Greyhound partnership of the '92 campaign has given way to the incredible shrinking Vice-President. Where does Al Gore go from here?
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WALTER SHAPIRO
SOMETIMES AL GORE’S intellectual earnestness can rend your heart. He can be so desperately eager for you to follow him aloft on his flights of abstraction that it is hard to remember that he is the second most successful politician of his generation—not some hyperkinetic assistant professor continually passed over for tenure.
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118,119,120,121,122,123,161
FEATURES
COVER
Heaven, Hell, Harvey Keitel
The further purifications of the goat-singer of Hollywood
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Nick Tosches
<p>HARVEY KEITEL LOVES THE OCEAN: the sight, the sound, the smell of it. He fell in love with it as a boy, growing up in a second-floor apartment in the Brighton Beach section of Brooklyn, where the asphalt ends at sand and sea, melancholy breakers and beer bottles, cigarette butts and latex love-litter, which, in those blithe days, went by the name of Coney Island whitefish. </p>
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124
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Versace: V2
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VERSACE
V2
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0086.xml
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125
ESQUIRE SPECIAL
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How to Live Forever Part I
ETERNAL LIFE IS IN THE DETAILS
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Michael Segell
HOW ABOUT A LITTLE cellular intercourse? It feels good, devotees claim, and there’s a long-term payoff: immortality. All you gotta do is awaken yourself on a cellular level to the idea that you weren’t born to die yesterday but to live forever.
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How Much Time Do You Have Left?
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Life expectancy today is about 72 years for men. That means that half of all baby boys will live longer than that. (The oldest human alive is 118.) The Social Security Administration predicts that by the year 2050 life expectancy for men will rise only to 76.5; for women to 83.
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126,127
How to Live Forever
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Strategies for Immortality I
Understand That a Man Is Just a Guy
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<p>1. Stay married. Tying the knot may shorten your wife’s life, but it’ll extend yours. It’s in your interest to keep her alive, since her soothing presence significantly boosts your chances of hanging on longer. Keep in mind that, because of her multiple burdens, her stress hormones diminish and her blood pressure drops when she goes to her office, then both kick back up again when she goes home (the opposite of your pattern).</p>
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Strategies for Immortality I
Strategies for Immortality I
Testosterone Timeline
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From the moment the first cascade of androgens—male hormones— masculinizes the fetus, the mate gender takes a beating. There are more male than female spontaneous abortions and stillbirths, and more mate neonatal, infant, and childhood deaths.
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128,129
How to Live Forever
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Strategies for Immortality II
Bust Your Hump
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<p>FIRST, GET A CHIROPRACTOR. No matter how old you are, if you exercise and play sports a lot, you’ll eventually hurt yourself, and you’ll want to get back on the beam as fast as possible so you don’t end up looking like the bum described below. Second, accept the fact that eventually you’re going to lose half a step and won’t be able to play squash with the college kids.</p>
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How to Live Forever
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Strategies for Immortality III
Keep Your Heart Healthy
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<p>CARDIOVASCULAR DISEASE begins plucking enough forty-year-old men from the population to become the number-one killer of men in that age group. . . . One in five sixty-year-olds has had a coronary event. . . . High blood pressure, high blood cholesterol, cigarette smoking, and physical inactivity are the main modifiable risk factors, according to the American Heart Association. . . .</p>
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Strategies for Immortality I
Strategies for Immortality I
Got Chest Pains? Cancel Your Hmo
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Experiment: Comparison of diagnoses by doctors in private practice, at hospitals, and in managed-care settings. Protocol: Thirty-two professional actors—young and old, black and white, men and women—are videotaped complaining either of chest pains or breathlessness, classic symptoms of an impending heart attack.
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Strategies for Immortality I
Strategies for Immortality I
Tales From the Outside
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Your body may be a temple, but chiseled into its architectural details are clues to your chances of developing a particular disease. Anthropometry, the study of body proportions, has come a long way since Hippocrates suggested a link between short, thick men and apoplexy.
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Strategies for Immortality I
Strategies for Immortality I
The Perfect Prophylactic (so Far)
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Nutritional-medicine specialists try to identify “intermediate end points”—signs of latent disease (like abnormally formed cells)—and treat them before they reach an end point (cancer). They believe many diseases in progress can be arrested by administering high doses of antioxidant vitamins, avoiding more invasive therapies.
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Advertisement
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0096.xml
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133A
133A
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Kentucky Springs Distilling Co.
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Kentucky Springs Distilling Co.
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0097.xml
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133B
133B
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Franklin Mint Precision Models: Harley-davidson
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Franklin Mint Precision Models
HARLEY-DAVIDSON
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134,135,136,137,138,139,140,141,142,143
FASHION
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Fine Lines
Can’t Afford Couture? Today’s Designers Are Taking Up a Second (or Third) Collection.
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IT WAS A SIMPLE IDEA: Create lower-priced designer clothing for younger or less-affluent consumers. But then the rules of dress began to loosen up—as belts began to tighten—and what was thought of as weekend or off-hours clothing started finding its way into the office.
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144,145,146,147
FASHION
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The Boot Goes On
The big shoe is big again for fall
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IT LOOKS as though we will walk out of the twentieth century the same way we came in: wearing boots. Clearly, this is a trend with legs. In addition to wearing them at the turn of the century, men wore boots with suits in the Twenties (as well as their more refined distant cousins, spats), briefly in the Fifties, and again during the Sixties, when guys really jumped into the phenomenon with both feet.
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FASHION
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What a Pair
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Play it close to the vest this fall. Any kind will do. Because the vest has become the new necktie—the item that finishes an outfit, unites all of the elements, and lets you express your personality. Button up a corduroy vest and suddenly you’re a natty professor.
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154
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The Xandria Collection
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The Xandria Collection
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0102.xml
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155
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Copper Mountain Resort
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COPPER MOUNTAIN RESORT
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0103.xml
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156
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Icl Labs
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ICL Labs
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0104.xml
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159
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The Townsend Institute: the Better Sex Video Series
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The Townsend Institute
THE Better Sex Video SERIES
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0105.xml
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161
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Advertisement
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0106.xml
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162
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Advertisement: Esquire
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ESQUIRE
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0107.xml
article
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163
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Credits
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Man At Hls Best, page 37: Meg Cohen at Metropolitan Design Group scarf ($250) at Paul Stuart and Paul Smith, New York. For information contact: Meg Cohen Design, 841 Broadway, New York, New York 10003. Fine Lines, pages 134 and 135: Emporio Armani sweater ($285), shirt ($215), vest ($235), and trousers ($260); suit ($730), sweater ($285), and vest ($450); suit ($750) and scarf ($165); sport Jacket ($490), vest ($240), shirt ($175), and trousers ($200); sport Jacket ($380), sweater ($190), and trousers ($225); at Emporio Armani, New York, Boston, and San Francisco.
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ADVERSARIA
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Beverly Hills Ate Her Face
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CINTRA WILSON
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0109.xml
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165
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B&W T Co.: Viceroy
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B&W T Co.
Viceroy
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0110.xml
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166
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Toyota Motor Sales, U.s.a., Inc.
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Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
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Esquire_19930901_0120_003_0111.xml