Article: 19891001057

Title: Playboy's Fall & Winter Fashion Forecast

19891001057
00061593
200050_19891001_061593.xml
Playboy's Fall & Winter Fashion Forecast
0032-1478
Playboy
HMH Publishing Co., Inc.
News
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article
Fashion Fads come and go, but some styles are so classic and right that their return is like greeting an old friend who has only grown better with age. Case in point is the double-breasted suit, a timeless item of apparel that never fails to give the wearer a Cary Grant cachet. Peak lapels, a ventless back and double-pleated trousers are just some of the details to look for. The traditional three-button sports jacket that has been worn on Ivy League campuses probably since the ivy began to grow up the walls is also back in kinder, gentler fabrics such as soft wools that drape rather than hold a rigid shape. Broader shoulders and a lower button placement also give the jacket a more urban look. And, yes, there's one more retro fabric to consider adding to your shopping list. It's corduroy--but the good news is that today's cloth bears almost no resemblance to the stiff stuff that wore and felt like a suit of armor when it was popular 15 years ago. The corduroy of today is a new softy, with wider wales for a better fit and a richer look.
Hollis Wayne
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Fashion Fads come and go, but some styles are so classic and right that their return is like greeting an old friend who has only grown better with age. Case in point is the double-breasted suit, a timeless item of apparel that never fails to give the wearer a Cary Grant cachet. Peak lapels, a ventless back and double-pleated trousers are just some of the details to look for. The traditional three-button sports jacket that has been worn on Ivy League campuses probably since the ivy began to grow up the walls is also back in kinder, gentler fabrics such as soft wools that drape rather than hold a rigid shape. Broader shoulders and a lower button placement also give the jacket a more urban look. And, yes, there's one more retro fabric to consider adding to your shopping list. It's corduroy--but the good news is that today's cloth bears almost no resemblance to the stiff stuff that wore and felt like a suit of armor when it was popular 15 years ago. The corduroy of today is a new softy, with wider wales for a better fit and a richer look.

Vests remain a permanent fixture in the male wardrobe, whether worn with a three-piece suit or just as casual-wear--as do shirts featuring stripes, patterns or woven looks. Ties for this season have a classic bottleneck-shaped look with three and one half inches to three and five eighths the norm when it comes to picking the right width. On the sportier side, sweaters in bright colors with flat-knit or patterned weaves are paired with fall's palette of browns, khakis, deep forest greens and rusts. Top off any ensemble with either an oversized stadium jacket or a rugged shearling overcoat and you'll stay warm when old man winter comes knocking at your door. Happy shopping.

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Photography by John Goodman
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Left: The classic touch--wool six-button double-breasted suit with double-pleated trousers, about $1100, worn with silk dress shirt, $275, both by Verri; plus silk Jacquard tie, by Garrick Anderson, $65; linen pocket square, by Ashear Bros., $15.
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Left: Cotton/wool corduroy three-piece suit with double reverse-pleated pants, $850, plus tab-collar cotton dress shirt, $135, both by Bill Kaiserman; silk tie, by Daniel Craig, about $60; gold-tone watch, by Tourneau, $295.
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Right, clockwise from 12: Striped cotton dress shirt, by LAZO, $145; silk satin tie, by Feuerman Cravats from X'Andrini, $45. Ticking-striped cotton dress shirt, by Kenneth Gordon, $60; silk tie, by Cecilia Metheny, $75. Striped cotton dress shirt, by Hugo Boss, about $85; silk tie, by Daniel Craig, $60. Striped cotton dress shirt, by Ike Behar, $95; silk crepe tie, by Andrew Fezza Neckwear from ZanZara, about $55.
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Left: Black nylon duffel coat with zipper front, detachable drawstring hood and cobalt rayon quilted lining, $265, is worn with wool/Lycra/ spandex/nylon mock biker sweater with ribbed striped front and tapered waist, $145, cotton wide-wale-corduroy trousers with double-pleated front and tapered legs, $125, all by Bill Robinson. (His Persol plastic-frame sunglasses, from Optical Exchange, New York, $169.95; sterling-silver watch, by Lisa Jenks, $650.)
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Right: Shearling coat with raglan sleeves, by La Matta, about $2100; wool/viscose crew-neck sweater, $500, wool polo-collar shirt, $250, and wool trousers, $285, all by Byblos; handsome alligator belt, by Trafalgar, $295.
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